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Welcome to the Poultry Keepers Podcast.
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In this episode Rip Stallvee, Jeff Mattocks, and Carey Blackmon let you in on the secrets to designing a good coop.
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So let's get started.
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The three things that's going to make or break chicken coops is space inside the coop itself, air exchange and coop location.
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And by the end of tonight's show, you'll have an idea about how many minimum square feet per bird you.
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How much opening areas you need for ventilation, how many square inches or square feet, and where to place a coop for drainage shade and predator control.
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So if you're ready, we are ready.
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So why don't we start with flock goals and you heard us talk about goals in the past, but.
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These are also important when we're doing building a chicken coop.
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You need to determine what's the purpose of your flock.
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Are you just got'em for egg layers or for meat birds?
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Are they show birds?
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Are they, is it a breeder coop?
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Is it a brooder coop, or is it a grow out coop?
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All of that can change the coop just a little bit.
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You also need to take into consideration your geographic location.
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What are your average high and low temperatures?
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They're not the same for everybody.
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It's definitely not a one size fits all thing.
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What's your average rainfall now here in Florida?
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We get a right.
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Good bit of the folks I know out west don't get all that much rain, but we have problems here with the rain puddling and the birds getting in it and it just makes a bit of a mess.
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And think about your prevailing wind directions.
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Is your coop in an urban area, suburban area, or a rural area?
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You gotta think about potential neighbor conflicts from noise or odors if you're in a tight situation.
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And you wanna be sure to check for any state and local regulations or ordinances before you start building.
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Yes.
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Because where?
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Okay, so where I live in one area of town, you cannot have a chicken at all in the town limits.
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Like none, no poultry, like they're all forbidden.
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And I've seen people go to city council uproar and they tell'em that they could move or they can get rid of their birds.
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They keep it simple for'em.
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Go up the road 15 minutes and you can have to six hands in your neighborhood.
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I live right?
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Almost dab in the middle, but I'm not in anybody's city or town limits, and I can have whatever I want and it's all within 15 minutes of each other.
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It used to be that way here that I could do whatever I wanted to do, but the county's now passed a regulation that on the property I have, I could have up to 10 hens, but no rooster.
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Which didn't make me very happy, but that's life.
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Deal with it and go with the flow.
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Think about what kind of coop you want and the coop you need.
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Do you want an enclosed, fully enclosed coop?
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We couldn't do that here in Florida just because it gets so bloom and hot and humid here that in the south, those fully enclosed coop.
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They look nice, but man, they're rough on birds.
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Do you want something more of an open air construction a movable tractor on pasture?
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Will you have an attached run to the coop?
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All of those factor into this, and I think.
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Once you meet the bird's basic requirements for floor space and ventilation the appearance of the coop is really secondary because you can configure it most any way you want to within reason.
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But Jeff, let's talk a little bit about minimum indoor space and run space and all that kind of stuff.
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What's your thoughts?
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The numbers I came up with over the years of doing this is the comfort.
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Of a hen or any, and now this depends on the size of the foul, but let's say your average large foul type bird, four square feet of indoor living space and at least 10 square feet of outdoor run area.
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And every time I push those numbers closer together, when the chicken math don't work and people have a few too many.
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It's just, I'm just waiting for a problem to show up.
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It's just a matter of time.
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People say I've been doing it for years.
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Okay.
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It's just, wait your turn.
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But, they gotta have their space.
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I had lots of space when we had our flock of 25, over the years Outback and.
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I saw all kinds of behavioral issues, right?
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And they were, so they would segregate, they would pack, hunt, they would, pick on the weak bird.
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They got bored, right?
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If they don't have enough space, they get bored and they look for an excuse to be an idea.
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A lot like teenagers
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living creatures weren't made to live in compact spaces.
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No.
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And Jeff, I know one thing, and y'all were talking about it in your show on poultry diseases and all that, but when you get birds packed into a particular space that stresses the birds and that causes project, just in case the folks didn't get to see that show.
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What were some of the things that, what kind of stresses can you expect to see when you start crowding your birds?
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Usually the first thing is pecking each other, right?
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Like they'll be.
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They'll be pecking at each other's tails at each other's back of their head.
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Could be pecking at the saddle area.
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So I tend to see pecking first.
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Eventually at some point you start seeing like nest nesting box competition, which is not good because look.
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For some strange reason the average laying hand wants to lay her egg at 10:00 AM Now look, I understand that varies.
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It'll vary with age, it'll vary with a lot of things.
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They paid grad students to sit and pay attention to when ahead.
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Laser egg.
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Yeah.
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And the average they have nothing else to do, right?
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They're right.
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They're paying a hundred grand for an education.
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They might as well sit there and.
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But the average hand wants to layer egg at 10:00 AM Okay.
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Yeah.
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Everything becomes a competition, whether it's feeder space, living, space brew a nesting space, whatever, right?
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But I don't think people realize, they don't necessarily pick up on those signs of stress in their chickens.
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And then if you're not looking or paying attention, you won't, but, know that when the stress level goes up, their immune system goes down, they go hand in hand.
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So the more stress you got in your yard or in your coop or your whatever, right?
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The weaker the immune system's functioning,
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it's always amazed me.
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How little it can take to stress out a flock of chicken.
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Sometimes
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I don't know that everybody sees those signs of stress.
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I don't know that everybody picks up on or sees those symptoms of stress.
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Because they can display in a lot of different ways.
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Yeah.
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Just, if you don't have your bucket time, if you don't, if you don't flip that bucket over and sit there and.
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Pay attention to'em, behavioral differences on a daily basis because you'll see behavioral patterns somewhat to each breed and Yeah, but, and when you see a change in those behavioral patterns, then you know, that's an early indicator of a sign of stress.
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Now is it an illness?
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Is it crowding?
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Is it air quality?
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Is it.
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If you don't have enough space, you're not gonna maintain the proper air quality, right?
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So how long till the respiratory disease shows up?
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If you don't have enough space, you have too much manure loading, right?
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You have too much back bacteria buildup in the soil and you got, and that depletes your air quality, but it also sets up for.
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A not clean environment, right?
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And a check-in is not gonna help itself, but scratch the ground and look for something right?
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And it's just too hard to keep it clean, right?
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Keep it clean to the level.
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It should be clean.
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And unless you're like cleaning it out daily and you're like the perfect housekeeper, it's gonna catch up to you at some point.
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Jeff, let's say we've got a coop, but we want to put a run on that coop.
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What's a good gauge?
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Square foot wise,
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Per bird, for that six, let's, I'm gonna say for an average like six pound bird.
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Put you in the middle of the large foul, lower end.
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That 10 square foot is where we wanna be and the bigger the bird, the bigger the space.
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All right.
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Yeah, so if you're working with some of the really big end of the large foul you're gonna be wanting more like 12 to 14 square feet of space out there to keep that bird happy.
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Not stressed, you're still not gonna manage grass, you're still not gonna keep things the way you want it to be.
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In a perfect world, you would have a centralized coop area, for nesting and for roosting at night.
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And that would be your four to five square foot.
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And ideally, if a person had four runs off of that with the right square footage, they could go in there and reseed that.
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They could go in there, they could line it, they could reed it, they could let something grow and they could move.
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Every week to a new run space.
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And by the time they got back, they would have newly germinated, something growing there.
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You gave the soil a rest where, the good bacteria could catch up to the bad bacteria and get everything balanced out again.
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And a somewhat clean environment, but, multiple years.
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And I saw this firsthand in a larger farm in Texas, right after 10 years of running poultry across the same field, he had to give it a rest.
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He could not get ahead of the pathogens, right?
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So he gave it a five year break of no chickens, right?
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And they just harvested the forage off of it and exported that because they had so much nutrient buildup.
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You have no way of exporting, not only the nutrients coming out in the manure, but ever letting the bacteria in the soil rebalance themselves.
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And people don't think about that, right?
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They, somehow you gotta give it a chance to, decompose, do what it needs to do, let the ground heal itself a little bit and transfer of nutrients.
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So that brings up a question for that.
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I have Jeff.
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Okay.
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So let's say I'm curious if I've had too many chickens in one spot for too long.
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If I get if I dig down an inch or two, grab some soil, stick it in a baggie, and use the lab sheet that y'all have on the for trail website.
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Send it off to them.
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Can you look at the results and be like, oh man, you got too much, blah, blah, blah.
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Yeah.
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You need to move your chickens for a while.
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Yeah,
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we do that all the time actually.
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People will send in soil tests and we can tell exactly where there's been too much manure applied to the soil.
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As you start seeing the phosphorus levels, the potassium levels, the sodium levels, all those things are like going off the charts on the really high range.
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And we just gotta give it a chance to, we gotta give it a break.
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We just,
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so that's not something you can like, put anything on to help or anything like that.
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You just gonna have to give it a break.
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Doing the liming between, periodically two, three times a year helps.
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It keeps things under control.
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Okay.
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But after about 10 years, depending on your birds per square foot kind of spacing, after about 10 years of being in the same location nothing's gonna grow there.
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You just, you've burned it up with all the nitrogen and all the excess nutrients.
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Nothing's gonna want to grow there except for some really ugly weeds.
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And so you got two choices.
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One, you can come in there and you can skim off the top three inches of soil and replace it with something.
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And that's like starting over.
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Or say, then you gotta tear your, all your fences up, right?
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You gotta move your fences so you can get the equipment in there to do.
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Yep.
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So I'm not doing that with a shovel.
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And another thing that I've noticed, and I see this a lot, particularly around poultry coops, where they let the birds out, but there is a tremendous buildup and a compaction caused by manure and if the birds are fed outside, spilled feeding and all that stuff.
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And it, it's almost like concrete.
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It can be depending on your soil type.
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Yeah.
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You're gonna see it worse in clay type soils than you will in like your sands in Florida.
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In Florida you've got more time before it will become like that.
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It just depends on what your starting soil type is.
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But if you're on a dense clay like we have up here yeah.
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Or, even out Oklahoma way, some of that soil's pretty play.
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It's, once it gets, starts getting manure on it and getting moisture on it.
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And, while you don't think about the pounds per square inch, right?
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A chicken's foot is not really that big.
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Okay?
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And repeated in the same location.
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So if you're not moving your feeders and you're not moving your wattles on a regular basis.
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You're gonna have those areas of compaction too much manure dropped in one spot, that sort of thing.
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And, but, we set up our coops for our convenience, not for long term health of the Bird.
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Nobody really thinks about it.
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And.
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People don't move their feeders and wattles, right?
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'cause they're hanging or they're in they're put in a fashion that they're not easy to keep mobile
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or they're convenient to get into just by opening the gate.
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Yeah.
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Yeah.
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And just attune to what you said about it getting hired.
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That's the reason.
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I've joked a couple times about a rotor tiller, but I actually do that.
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I'll do that once a year.
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I'll go in with a rotor tiller, I'll get all the birds out of the pen, put them in one that's fresh, done.
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'cause I do keep an empty pen and I'll till it up really good.
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Lime it, till it, lime it, till it lime it, throw some sand in it till it, I do that a few times and then throw some pea moss on top of it.
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Before I put birds back in it, but when I first get it, there's been times that I've had to use a pick to initially break the dirt.
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The, my tiller is it's little.
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The thing don't weigh 20 pounds and it just, it'll bounce and bounce, but the dirt will be so hard that it won't go through it.
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But since I've started every summer.
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Tilling it and going through that process where, I'll do it three times with lime and then put a layer of sand till that end, and then I will put peat moss on it.
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I've noticed a big difference in the health of the birds, which I didn't have sick birds before, but they're a lot more.
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Perky or upbeat or whatever.
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They've come up a level.
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Yeah.
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They're a lot less stressed.
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And that's just from making that one change to the dirt.
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You're gonna have less bumble foot, you're gonna have less foot issues in general.
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Yeah.
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But they're gonna be happier on loose soil than they are hard compacted soil.
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Just because they want to kick and scratch and, that's what they wanna do.
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So
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Ingrid Vincent has a comment here and a question, or has a question really this is a good time to talk about it.
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Does that apply to pastured birds to the tenure timeframe?
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She's talking about,
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It and that though the operation that I was talking about was pastured, but it was using the same 10 acre field and it would run.
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Large coops across it, five or six times in a year.
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It can eventually catch up, but it depends on it depends on the stocking density and how frequent the birds are on there, right?
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So it can, that can apply to a pastured poultry operation or a movable, a movable poultry operation, eventually, but.
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It's rare to see that happen, right?
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Most people moving their birds a around their yard or their fields or whatever, only see the benefit of it, right?
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Yeah.
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That was a unique situation, like I said, down in Texas, just north of Dallas, where they just continually beat on one field.
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It was convenient.
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They had all the infrastructure, it's where they wanted to be and the guy was raising 80,000 birds a year on that 10 acres, right?
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So it's, for a few years.
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So it was like
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rollers that were highly densely populated inside of a tractor.
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Yeah.
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They still had good square footage.
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They had one and a half square foot per bird and they were moved daily.
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But still 80,000
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birds on 10 acres when
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you go across the same strip of land.
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Yeah.
00:17:58.567 --> 00:17:59.192
For 10 years.
00:17:59.791 --> 00:18:03.872
You get to a point where the soil can't take any more nutrients.
00:18:04.172 --> 00:18:07.531
Just not gonna it can't deal with one more bird dropping.