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Welcome to this episode of The Poultry Keepers Podcast.
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In todays episode of Grow Out Secrets,-Part 2, John Gunterman, Mandelyn Royal and Rip Stallvee conclude their discussion on Grow Outs.
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They pick up where they left off last week.
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Now let's turn it over to the team.
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Mandelyn, I have a question for you.
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How much attention do you pay to activity level?
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Are they alert, energetic foraging?
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Is that important to you?
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Oh, absolutely.
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I'm looking, so when I pull'em out of those brooders at about five weeks old and I set'em up into a grow pen.
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The very first thing I expect them to do is immediately bounce around, play, take a dust bath, scope out the feed and water situation, and totally be enjoying the new freedom of space.
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'cause now, they have a nine foot ceiling, they can do whatever they want.
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So another three, four weeks after that, I start introducing'em to the outdoors at, 8, 9, 10 weeks old.
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And that first day is pretty normal for them to huddle in the doorway and go that's scary out there.
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But the next day when I open that door up, I expect at least one of'em to be brave and I expect its favorite best friends to go out with them and start exploring and doing their little chicken thing.
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Any of'em that hang back.
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And they don't want to do that.
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We're into the third or fourth day.
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Then I can go ahead and stick a colleague band on that one and know it just doesn't have the gumption I need.
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It's not out there doing what they're supposed to be doing.
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This bird is more passive and there might be some future breeding ramifications from using that bird.
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So I won't, I want the ones with the get up and go.
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One thing and we haven't touched on it yet, so I guess this is probably a good, pretty good place here, but when you raising chickens, and this is something the three of us have experienced personally, that when you change your nutrition, it can actually shape to a certain extent the growth of your flock.
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All three of us have gone from.
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A Okay.
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Feed to a wow feed to just pack the nutrition.
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John's even making his own.
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And y'all correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't nutrition have a remarkable effect on our birds?
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Yes.
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You'll start noticing a trend of more of them doing what they're supposed to be doing, not just a little handful of'em on feed.
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But when you give all of them the actual correct nutrition, you're gonna probably see a reduced rate of call because more of them are getting what they need to go out and do their chicken things
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and don't just change their feed, feed'em grit too.
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That makes a.
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Powerful difference.
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It really does well.
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And using the right size grit and making sure they always have it and that they're uptaking it, yes, you can shave off 20% of your feed consumption because they're able to metabolize and digest it better,
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pays for itself instantly.
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And then my next little science project I wanna try to do for grow outs.
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Actually doing a way better job of tracking consumption levels of a popular feed versus a higher end feed.
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Because the difference in consumption can be as much as 20% in some cases.
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I think it's a little more than that, and the feed doesn't cost twice as much, but you could save almost twice as much in your consumption rate.
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And produce a lot less manure.
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I wish I could convey what Madeline just said better to so many poultry keepers, because when I start talking about switching to a higher quality feed, the first response I get is it costs more.
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A lot of times it's only$5 more per bag once you, yeah, it a little bit chicken.
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But you instantly regain that cost.
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We know that on better
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production,
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we just gotta figure out how to do a better job of convincing new folks with Expensive isn't expensive.
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No.
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Buy the best and only try once
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and cost, not just the upfront cost.
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What's the backend cost and versus your savings versus your result.
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Also backend costs increase manure production, increased nitrogen, increased ammonia.
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All these extras that come by feeding a low quality diet that affect the health of the chicken, and what comes out the backend end.
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You give them grit, you're gonna realize more return on, what goes in.
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Yeah,
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you're gonna pass out mo less unprocessed
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And you can over feed high quality feed too.
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By that I mean if you're, I've seen some people that have started feeding game bird grower, gay bird starter, gay bird breeder.
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Some of that stuff's 30% protein.
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Our birds do not need that amount of protein.
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You're wasting money.
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It just comes
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out the back end after 24%.
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All that extra protein just comes right out.
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The back
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wasted, totally wasted.
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I brooded my quail and my Turkey puls together because they need that protein level.
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The Santa Claires are in a separate brooder.
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They're right above them, but they're, right now at about a 21 and a half with, of course, some really nice supplements.
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But I'm able to make my own feed, on the fly, grind my grain and make it exactly the way I wa I want it.
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But you can absolutely go to the feed store and get, a bag of Turkey and game bird starter if you have turkeys and game birds.
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But I wouldn't use them on, I.
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Large foul.
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There's some, you're pushing them too hard.
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The renal systems can't handle that excess protein.
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And there's that myth out there floating around.
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And if you want'em to grow good, give'em a lot of protein.
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But truth be told, it's not actually the protein.
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No, it's the amino acids.
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You're giving, they're checking
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the wrong line item on the bag.
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It's the amino acids.
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You're basically giving your birds type two diabetes.
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I, I wish they would put amino acids the first two things on feed tag.
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I really do.
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But you're exactly right.
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They people.
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And I did it, so you know.
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I get it.
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I understand.
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Oh,
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we all did it back in the beginning.
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Focused
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on protein.
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And it doesn't matter.
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16%
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layer, 16% layer.
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I'll take whatever is the cheapest.
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Oh, that stuff on the pallet.
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Six months old.
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Yeah.
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You want five bucks a bag?
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I'll take all of it raw.
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Wish more people would pay attention to the amount of vitamins and minerals in their feed, because that too can make a significant difference.
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And check the, since you're looking at your tags anyways, check the manufacture date or the milling date.
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Use as fresh as possible.
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Don't take any, don't buy anything more than 90 days old.
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Certainly you need to show that to your store manager and say, Hey, you need to send this back to the mill because this has expired.
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And some dates can be hard to read.
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It's not like a simple month, day and year, for example.
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Some may use a number like 25 dash three 30 and what that means.
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It was made in the year 2025 and the 330th day of the year.
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Yep.
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Yeah.
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They do their best to hide things from us, I swear.
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Makes me nuts.
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I know our local composter has actually worked out a deal to help some of these people with their expired feed and moldy feed.
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This time of year they've been getting a lot of bags of moldy feed and they just, put'em in the digester along with everything else.
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Unfortunately, a lot of people have learned the hard way that.
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The health problems that come with feeding older or poor quality feed are very detrimental and can wipe out a flock if you're not careful.
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That, and keeping it dry and preventing mold, because mold is a big problem.
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And,
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and that includes cleaning your feeders and checking the bottom of your feeders.
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'cause I know in some of my pens I'll temporarily use those.
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Cheap plastic gravity feeders, but the lip on'em creates spillage'cause it's too shallow.
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So I'll put it inside of a bigger feed pan to give it a higher side.
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Yep.
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And the birds are gonna still kick it out into that other pan.
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But I need to do my job of picking up everything and checking the bottom of that bigger pan I use to make sure it's not growing mold and getting crusty underneath that feeder.
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And if you've got an auto watering system, you should be flushing it regularly.
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Oh yeah.
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Making sure there's no algae slime growing inside of it.
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Jeff is famous for saying, if you wouldn't drink out of your poultry drinker, fix it.
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And then you have people who comment and say they drink outta mud puddles every day.
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Yeah.
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It's okay.
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And that's where they pick up parasites and coccidia too.
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Sure.
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My dog does too.
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When we're walking along the side of the road, she'll also drink out of the toilet.
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We were first enough, we would too, and then deal with the bellyache that came from it.
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Yeah.
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Hey, this gets us to a good segue point to talk about.
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Developing the ability to identify problems early on.
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Yes.
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You
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know, look for things like sudden growth drops.
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Where they doing really good and then wham, all of a sudden they just stop growing.
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Or your birds,
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or even if they had a negative growth rate to where Oh yeah.
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Gaining.
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And then boom, they lost weight.
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But they're at an age where they shouldn't have
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look for things like labored breathing or respiration imbalances.
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Has the feather stopped growing?
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That's something that's often overlooked because people don't understand the growth rate that they should have on their birds feathers.
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Behavioral clues, like they're just hanging out all by their selves.
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That's not normal for a chicken.
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Yeah.
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That's never a good sign.
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Or they dis interested in feed.
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Yeah.
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The cock rolls something I've noticed and I was a little concerned at first.
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A cock roll after their normal little establishing their pecking order thing, will usually go off in a corner and sulk for a little bit.
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Maybe a day as he got his butt handed to him by the granddaddy Cockrell.
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But you should come back and, fall into line.
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If he stays outta the circle for more than a day or two, that's when you need to start being worried.
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But, just running in and scooping up a cockle.
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'cause he just, lost his pecking order fight and putting him in a pen and, rehabilitating him and then putting them back out in the yard is probably just going to incur the exact same episode all over again.
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It might end up on a repeat of, pull'em out, put'em back.
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They do it again.
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Pull'em out, treat'em, put'em back.
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They do it again.
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Yeah it's repetitive if you keep pulling birds out because they don't handle reintroduction that well.
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Yeah.
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So if you've got a bird that's being constantly picked on, if you pull them out, don't ever put'em back in, you pull'em out, they go to the freezer, I say, or somewhere else.
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If they still have more time to grow the one getting thoroughly bullied, usually I'll just drop'em into the next younger batch.
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I don't really don't have a problem so much with that, but or at all, let's be honest.
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But I've seen it and that's part of the choosing for temperament.
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And you don't want a little wimpy bird that gets his behind kicked and doesn't have the natural ability to defend the flock when it needs to happen.
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Justice, you don't wanna bully either.
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When there's a predator alarm, pay attention also to when those boys stand up, look around and they're ready.
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Oh, yes.
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Or did they hightail it into cover first before even thinking about anyone else?
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Uhhuh.
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So I just, the other day I was sitting in here and it was a oh strange warm day.
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So the kitchen window was open and I heard my rooster's little chuck alarm call.
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So I went to the kitchen and I looked out and this rooster went and he ran to where the furthest hen was away and put himself between him and the predator that was out in the field.
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They were still on the inside of the electric fence, so I wasn't really worried and then waited for all the hens to go back into the hen house before he went back in and I went, yeah, good rooster.
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Exactly.
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That's what you wanna see.
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That's what I wanna see.
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Let's talk about the things that a lot of people don't want to talk about, but let's talk about culling.
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Culling is not I'm not scared, is not punishment.
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Look at it as flock refinement.
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When I'm sitting around watching birds, I'm looking for things that.
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I wanna see stay in my flock.
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And if a bird doesn't show me anything, then it's removed.
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Okay?
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Now, whatever you do with it, whether you eat it, whether you give it away, whether you sell it, that that's a decision that you have to make.
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But if it's not gonna help, move your flock forward.
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Don't keep it.
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What are some of the things needs some breakfast, eggs.
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Yeah.
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What are some of the things that you look for when you're calling birds?
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Madeleine?
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I look for what you said, like the value to the breeding program.
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Is this bird gonna help me?
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Is what I look at first, and I.
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If I feel on the fence about it, I might give'em some more time to grow.
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If I've got any questions about how's the tail gonna finish?
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What's the final wing set gonna be?
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How deep did the chest get?
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How much more growth potential does this bird need to tell me if it's breeding quality or not?
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And then making the decision on if it's gonna be good for my program or not.
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But I also.
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Looking at what's negative about the bird, what is the worst feature that this bird has, and do I have the flock ingredients available to do some compensation mating to correct that?
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Or is it a serious enough issue that I just right in the freezer?
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In the freezer without any further thought.
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So it just depends on that individual bird's merit or what I might have to, I.
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Breed up to make that bird better through the offspring.
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It's really bird by bird.
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Like I don't have a blanket policy.
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It's just bird by bird.
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I'm basic.
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What about you for yourself?
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Any sign of a structural or genetic fault as the bird is growing out is a disqualification.
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I know it's a numbers game.
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I know that if I hatch out a hundred birds, if everything goes really good, I'll have 10 that are good enough to carry forward and 90 birds for the freezer.
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Oh yeah.
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Out of a hundred birds, I already know I'm eating 50.
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I already know that.
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Yeah.
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Or I can donate the, right out of the right outta the shoot.
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Any chicks that aren't.
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Destined for breeding at the end of three weeks.
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I can take all those and just integrate them into somebody else's flock and they can raise'em out and put'em in their freezer, and I don't need to carry that feed bill myself, and I can just concentrate my time and attention.
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That's something that we just can't buy more of on the birds that I intend to keep.