WEBVTT
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Welcome to another episode of the Poultry Keepers Podcast.
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Today John Gunterman, Mandelyn Royal, and Rip Stallvee finish their discussion on Smart Selection tips.
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So, lets get right to it, we'll pick up where we left off last week.
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I do think it's important to get them being raised at their destination farm as soon as possible.
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Because the local environment and your husband's reef practices will affect the development of that bird.
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So the longer they spend here.
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The worst for the breeding process going forward.
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If they're destined for that farm, they need to get there as soon as possible and get under their, that specific care and management regimen, because that will affect their development, especially at this early age.
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Yeah, that's true.
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So Gwyneth, come get these turkeys.
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I, I think one thing that folks who are fairly new to breeding.
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Need to remember is that there's a difference in maturity rates.
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Maturity rates between meat type birds, layer type birds and standard bread type birds.
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It's not all the same.
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It's, the information on the internet makes, it sounds like the birds are gonna be all mature at 20 weeks and yada yada, and that's just not Nope.
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True.
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Doesn't work that way so much.
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It'll vary.
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Depends on where they came from.
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Yeah.
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It'll vary within the same breed.
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Oh, absolutely.
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Bloodline's a bud line, they're gonna be a little bit different one to another.
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And the reason is because one breeder's selecting for something and the other breeder may not be selecting for that same quality.
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But by spending time with the birds.
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We can learn within our breed.
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Some traits you're gonna show earlier and some are gonna wait until much later.
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They're not all going to be at the same rate.
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And hopefully the breeder you source from is also willing to mentor on the genetics you actually have.
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Yes,
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because
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they have all that information from all the previous generations.
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Definitely.
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And speaking of having all the information one thing I would encourage listeners to do is to keep a journal.
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When you're sit out and you're observing your birds make notes, just jot down what because I guarantee you, you're gonna forget it if you don't.
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Oh, we're a podcast.
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You can't see the binoculars that are in my hand and my window overlooking the yard.
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But the the a BA wing sorry, leg bands you really can't see with the binoculars.
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Can't read the numbers.
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But I do mark my birds with alcohol-based gel food coloring.
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And they're distinctive out in pasture'cause they're white birds.
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And if they're running around with pink plumage or green plumage or blue plumage in a big splash, I'm like, oh, I know who you are from a distance
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makes a difference,
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especially when I've got a hen going over the wire and laying out in the wild.
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And I want those eggs for several reasons, which we've already covered one of the,
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I'm your notes here.
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Yeah.
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Where you're talking about late maturing bloodlines, we kind of touched on that a little bit, but then also the early bloomers that fade out in quality.
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Oh man.
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Now that is
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a trap I have encountered, I've seen that where I pick an early favorite and we go through the duration of growth and the next thing you know, there's 10 other birds that are better than that one.
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You're exactly right.
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It's, I find that I wind up picking my birds that I keep from that sort of middle group of the flock.
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Yeah.
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A lot of them turn out to not the real stellar
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early, early bloomers.
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Early matures, fast growers and not the nedo wells over here, but those in the middle of the flock tend to give me the most consistency down the road.
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Sure.
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And if you take that weekly growth or daily weight data.
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On each bird and chart it in a bell curve.
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You're gonna know exactly where the center of your flock is, and you'll be able to make your selection from the middle of that bell curve and at three weeks.
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And there's a lot of consistency to their later growth rate based upon their early growth rate.
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It's almost an exact mirror, just enlarged.
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It's pretty cool and
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you can't take too many notes.
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Nope.
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The more information you have, the better decisions you can make.
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Very true.
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And we've talked about doing this criteria on a cohort basis, right?
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Having birds of the same age together, even a week different in hatch date, can make A difference later on down the line.
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And there are times where, I do band, wing band, everybody with a different color wing band based upon hatch.
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And eventually I will take the slower maturing birds and throw them in, a week or two back, you're being held back in first or second grade to develop a little bit more'cause they're not ready,
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but you banned'em.
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So you know the who they are.
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I know who they are and they've already been disqualified, but they're still gonna make maybe a good layer or maybe a good meal.
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Yeah, for sure.
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But I'm
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not gonna breed with'em.
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'cause the development wasn't right.
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And something, I'm gonna
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look at who the parents were and go, do you constantly throw birds that do this?
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Or is it on a 10% basis, 50% basis?
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Maybe.
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I don't wanna breed with you too, as a pair anymore.
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Oh, I know what I was gonna say and I've thought about it and then I forgot it, but with getting old, y'all.
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By consistently observing your birds, making notes and studying those notes, you're gonna be able to spot when your line is starting to drift away from the breed standard.
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And it's going to happen, I promise you.
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They'll drift on you from year to year.
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I'm going
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through that now.
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You know that little saying of never, ever made extremes.
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Also I did some dabbling.
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How that work out for you?
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It's approved theory.
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Yeah.
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As it turns out, don't do that because they compound on themselves and hit stronger that next generation and the next thing you know, you just wasted.
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Heterosis is great.
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No, the heterosis is great, the hybrid vigor, but by the time you go
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full circle with it, it's a full two years you've wasted on that scientific experimentation.
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So I'm glad I got it outta my system.
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But also,
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You get, you got to see a punt square in action develop.
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Boom, there it is.
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And it tickled my little peanut brain, which is great, and I'm glad to be past it.
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But
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it's good that you did that now and not.
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Four or five years further down the road.
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Now I can really confidently say any outside cross you do, whether it's into a different genetic family within the same breed or a complete outcross into whatever, know that you're gonna bring a potential of seven years of ramifications by having done that.
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And some of'em aren't gonna become apparent until you've already spent.
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Generations.
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Yep.
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This is not quick, fast, easy stuff.
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This is compounding generation to generation and adding that diversity to see your genetic persuasions and what all's in there know that you're not making as good a progress as you could have made by doing a different approach.
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You're not gonna reinvent the wheel, you're just gonna learn a whole bunch.
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On how those traits actually move forward through the flock and which things will skip a generation or two.
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Yep.
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Yep.
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One thing I want to talk about and Mandelyn, you and John are really good at this, is when you evaluate your birds, y'all evaluate them peer to peer.
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It's the only way.
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Same
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hatch, same age, same type.
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When Madeline, I, you're probably as thorough as anybody I know, but how do you do that?
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What?
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What's your thought processes when you go through that?
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So a lot of people seem to get hung up on what am I basing my decisions on?
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What's my example?
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So to streamline it and make it easier on myself.
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I don't agonize over which bird I'm going to do first.
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I walk into a pen.
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I review that pen and I try to find my favorite visually while observing.
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So when I pick that bird up and I handle to confirm what I think I saw, that bird will become like my baseline bird.
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Every bird I pick up after that is either better, the same or worse.
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So there's a reason my sort cage has three holes.
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Those three holes, let me go.
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Good, better, best.
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Wonky to not so wonky to pretty, okay.
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Depends on the batch and that breeding behind them and what they're showing me.
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But being able to rank'em into three groups really helps me streamline and then group them and then come up with an assessment of that group.
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Now, the next group, I'm not comparing'em to the group before, just themselves.
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But some other important factors, I think is your sorting station.
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You've got everything up at the proper level.
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You've got good uniform lighting all around, and that, that was one of the things that impressed me the most about the time I was able to visit your farm is well, and I have I, a scale and a
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notepad and everything's waist height, so I get a good head on view.
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Everything is there to make the evaluation process as easy as possible on you and on the birds where, I've experienced this.
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My birds actually look forward.
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They'll jump up on the scale and pose for me
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with routine.
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They make it pretty easy.
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They do.
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They do.
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And
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I can go through and sort.
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Having those little cardboard cutout silhouettes of your breed standard and the shilling photos are great for that, for a fluffy bird'cause you've got a general s silhouette, but it still requires hands-on to make sure what's under there is being telegraphed out in the plumage.
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Mitch,
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and you
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talked about, I've got a friend who's a morons breeder who goes outside with color cards at two 30 on overcast days to grade her eggs because that's lighting is important.
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Like the standard.
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That's the standard for the moron egg, or it might not be two 30, but there I remember distinctly something about it has to be an overcast day outside with the color card.
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Yeah.
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Direct.
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I'm not changing or change the
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saturation.
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Yeah.
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Makes it natural.
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I lost point, to me, I see a dozen really brown eggs to her.
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She's oh no, this one no.
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That egg and that egg.
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I'm like, okay.
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So she already selected down to two from a dozen before they even got set.
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Is there anything that you two use.
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That could be a tip for our listeners.
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When you're doing your peer-to-peer selection like
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Make
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sure you're using consistent lighting.
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Even the surface I learned from you zone can make a difference
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right from the beginning straight down on the head from hatch.
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Yeah.
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What's their skull width?
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How do their eyes set?
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Having'em at waist height really makes a big difference.
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Like I, I can host my own chicken show in my own barn every day if I wanted to.
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I do pretty much.
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The other thing I'm lighting, and I know I've talked about this before, is making sure it's a f.
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Flicker free light source.
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Oh yeah.
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And you can check it very easily by using your digital camera on any pocket device and recording in slow motion and playing it back.
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If you see a strobe, your lights are doing that to your chickens.
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It's so fast we can't see it happening, but they do.
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It stresses the birds
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stress amount.
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It does.
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Nice subdued ambiance.
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You don't wanna open flame in your barn and you can't really get incandescent bulbs anymore, but you can get flicker free bulbs, and I do recommend that.
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And it's not a strong, harsh light either.
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It's easier on you and your birds.
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One thing that I.
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Find is that it's much easier to evaluate your birds if you've been handling them all along as they're growing up.
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So they're used to that.
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They're it.
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They're not flipping out and panicking because they're not.
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This is a whole new situation because
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right
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when birds are stressed or excited, their whole body type changes guarantee you.
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Yes, it really does.
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And that can even include a complete change in their silhouette because when they Oh yeah.
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Stress.
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And when they feel on alert, they pull their feathers in tighter.
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Not their natural carriage, but like when two boys are getting ready to face off, you can watch'em, those feathers pull in and tighten because it's a protective measure.
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And then they'll stand up taller.
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They'll stand up on alert.
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And that's a completely different bird than the relaxed bird.
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Every animal, if you observe them, has a similar pot horse.
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Horses will stand up with their ears pinned back.
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Same with canines.
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They all do it.
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Another one affects development.
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Everything affects development.
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Another thing I've noticed, I've seen people who are raising their birds out on range, but they bring them in and they put'em in wire bottom cages to try to evaluate'em.
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They don't even know how to stand on that surface.
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They don't it, it throws'em off.
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It looks like a totally different bird.
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Yeah.
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If they're not used to it.
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And mine are raised on use
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wire bottoms to break a broody.
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That's all I ever use'em for.
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And they're, mine are raised in the hitching time system.
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So they're always on wire.
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It's plastic and it's especially shaped plastic.
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There's a lot of engineering, but it's a lot of plastic.
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So I try to get'em off of that as soon as possible, and onto grass and dirt and soil, and en engaging with the natural environment.
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Now, what method are you guys using to protect yourselves from emotional bias when it comes to picking favorites?
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Like you're focusing on the bird, not your sentiment, right?
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Yeah.
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Oh, you
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have to.
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You have to I come from a culinary background and then into a agricultural and farming background to feed people.
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So every bird eventually is going to feed us in some way.
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I think one thing that helped me Mandelyn was getting my judge's license.
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Oh, that would do it, wouldn't it?
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Because now you're judging for strangers.
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You, I cannot look at a bird without thinking, okay, this is wrong, that's wrong, yada, yada, yada.
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And then I try, I force myself to do that.
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When I'm evaluating my own bird, I try to go at it from the standpoint that I have never seen that bird before.
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So I wanna, sometimes
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I have to spend an extra day on my selection to make sure the choices I made were the right ones.
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Yeah that's normal.
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That's normal.
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Sure.
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And we've gotten until week 16 or 18, and I've actually found by holding things over and, some birds are ready to harvest early.
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I know where they've reached a point where they're not gonna be putting on any more usable.
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Meat in relation to feeding them more.
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They could come out at 16 weeks and there's some birds that, they're out of breeding potential, but they may need to go to 18 weeks'cause they're still putting on mass in relation to the amount of food going in versus coming out.
00:15:49.932 --> 00:15:53.052
Some of my boys, so I don't get hard set on a processing date.